The application context is fashion, the second highest world polluter worldwide. The customization of sewing patterns is used to create algorithmic body-generated clothing, only made on order and locally produced. Through virtual processing of 3D surfaces, generated from human body scan data, the parameterization through algorithms are a way to handle doubly curved surfaces (the body) with low distortion on 2D (paper or fabric) and off-standard intersection lines.
This developed algorithmic sewing pattern method (ASP – patented software application) shows great potential for a new business model in form of a global-local connected platform, that offers a catalogue of customisable clothes, for sewing or commissioning to local sewing companies – to support a new era of craftsmanship 4.0. The apparel that OpenDress produces has a fit guarantee through the developed ASP method.
Today’s hyperreality is by no means a new phenomenon. In Ancient Greece, hybrids in form of supernatural creatures were the Gods of Olympus, an eminent example of how the familiar self and otherness were merged into a single complex being. These hybrids combined the savagery of nature with the intelligence of humans, making them powerful allies. The concept of “otherness” (Baudrillard, 1994) discusses the aspect of the “other” – similar to how they describe nature, technology and digitality.
The concept of the “otherness” (i.Bid.) overcomes the dualism of subject and object and thus enables the alterity of the non-human or supernatural to appear (Braidotti, 2019). Today, “otherness”(i.Bid.) has begun appearing in different forms of digital cyber cultures, avatars, cyborgs, the quantified self, artificial intelligence (AI), where the digital merges with the physical as a constituting effect of technological mediations.
The emerging field of computational fabrication is making new ways of designing and manufacturing supported by generative design (parametric design) more and more accessible. These new manufacturing methods also allow exploring different algorithms, their differences and the generated results in physical space. The role of designers is therefore shifting.
Today, designers need to embrace complexity and processes between different sources of intelligence (algorithms, material behaviour, aesthetics, sewing machine conditions). As a result, they adapt objective initializations of parameters from their own perspective and reiterate these in a symbiotic process between virtual modelling and real-world cutting.